Well- it’s been a while since our last blog post, and we have been savoring the experience of being in Japan. We slowly worked our way north up the west coast of Kyushu, Honschu, and now Hokkaido, through the Sea of Japan. If you’re wondering where we are on a map- it’s the left side of Japan.
We also were fortunate enough to have Ben’s parents join for 3 weeks, which they followed up with a nice walking trip on the Kii Peninsula.
Their visit started in Fukuoka, where Kuaka was tied up in the Odo Marina. We explored downtown Fukuoka, Pam had her first onsen experience, and they ate their first Japanese meal at a boisterous and delicious hole-in-the-wall spot. We set out on April 20th and, in typical Japan sailing style, it was a 60ish mile motor in calm conditions with extreme smog.
Their vigilant steering got us to Iki shima. With strong northerlies forecast and a secure marina (for about $2 US per day), we spent a week exploring. It is remarkable to travel in a country with such deep history, and one that has been well-preserved.
Here is Pam considering whether she will brave the bats to explore a Kofun burial mound from the 6th or 7th century.
Here was an encounter with a different type of burial! There was a certain whimsy with which this museum curated their exhibit on the Ikikoku village, which was once the royal capital of Iki during the Yayoi period and a major center of trade and culture. The museum also had a model cedar fishing boat, which was depicted in a beautiful tile mosaic at the fishing port.
Our exploration of Iki history took us to several battlefields where the Mongols tried to invade Japan in 1274 and 1281. Here is Peter in the mote surrounding a castle ruin, trying out what it might have felt like to breach the castle wall.
Other highlights included several rocks that are officially included on Japan’s list of “100 most beautiful rocks.” This one is the gorilla rock – sort of reminds us of monkey face at Smith Rock or the Gorilla Rock on the Rogue River.
And some very unique play structures.
And no island tour in Japan could be complete without stopping at a handful of shrines and temples.
Including a monkey shrine that we could really identify with: “hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil.”
And this little monkey who was also hanging with his ‘rents.
We managed to thoroughly exhaust at least one of our ‘rents.
With that we sped north in another glassy calm and arrived on a small island, Tsunoshima, where we enjoyed the best lunch we’ve had in Japan. The restaurant was an old, converted house, and we loved all the tiny bowls of delicious things.
Extra credit to anyone who can identify these culinary wonders.
After a quick overnight stop in Ezaki, we set out for Yunotsu, a small and very historic port town with a long tradition of pottery making, artistry, and a UNESCO onsen! On our way to visit several old pottery kilns, we had our first taste of Japanese curry.
We definitely are fans! Bellies full, we waddled up the valley to visit several “climbing” wood-fired pottery kilns from the 18th century.
And of course, no walk is complete without a stop to pay respects at the local Shinto shrine.
Another highlight of Japan has been the manhole covers. They feature all sorts of local sites, cast into the surface. This one says, “A town of hot springs and history,” which just about sums up Yunostsu.
In addition to the exploring and site seeing, we have been delighted by many heart-warming encounters with local Japanese folks.
Perhaps our most unique encounter with a local was on the day that we were leaving Yunotsu for Taisha. As we were getting ready to head out, we met Take-chan, a 41 year old guy who runs a local campground. He was in town to visit the onsen and was clearly intrigued by sailing. We offered that he could come with us to the next town, so he loaded up with his conch horn and climbed aboard. For the next 4 hours he alternated between having “customers calling” (code for being seasick and urping in a bucket) and blowing his conch horn. We’ve never entered a port in such style before- with Take-chan blowing the conch and yelling “We are pirates, give us all our money.” Needless to say, the port officials gave us a premium spot (and took this photo for us).
In Taisha we experienced both the beginning of Golden Week (a huge tourist week) and our most beautiful Shinto shrine yet, the Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine, also known as Izumo Oyashiro.
After exploring the beautiful shrine and surrounding grounds, which included a payment to the god of sea travel (never hurts), we pressed on, tackling one of our longer walks yet through the densely forested area surrounding Taisha city.
We set out the next day for Nishinoshima, part of a group of islands that make up the Oki Islands.
We once again took advantage of excellent walking and explored the island by foot.
Part way through our walk, we all realized it was Pam and Peter’s wedding anniversary, so made them take an obligatory mirror pic.
And finally, after 3 wonderful weeks, it was time to deposit the parents at a train station and continue north. We of course missed the port we were going to (Tottori), and with gusts into the mid 40s and a lee shore we kept sailing north (with the parents). By sunset we ended up in a wonderful tiny port, albeit with only 2 trains per day. Luckily, they climbed aboard, after one last mirror picture.
We had such a wonderful time exploring Japan with the ‘rents. With the privilege of having spent several months in Japan already, it was refreshing to experience these places with fresh perspective and renewed curiosity. We were terribly sad to see them go, but were comforted slightly by discovering a taste of home at the local grocery store. Thank goodness for butter balls!
