After almost a month down the Pacific coast of the US, we headed off from San Diego in the late afternoon. Our next port was Ensanada, required for entry into Mexico. We had lost 2 crewmembers to the wiley ways of San Diego (good food, rainy weather, airport, flights home), so Bryce, Peter and I were the remaining Kuakites – back to the original Seattle crew. Our evening departure coincided with yet another one of Elon’s rocket launches from Point Conception. The next morning found us tied up in Ensanada and quickly through customs, immigration, and the port captain.
After just one night, and two rounds of fish and shrimp tacos, we were off again on an overnight dash with good wind to San Quintin. We had beautiful sailing from just outside the harbor all the way to the anchorage, once again arriving in the morning with time for a walk and some wingfoiling.
The good NW winds held and we continued sailing south, hopping between small, moderately protected anchorages at Isla San Geronimo (where we were not allowed on shore) and Isla San Benito. There were tuna en-route though.
Islas San Benito are three small islands NW of the larger Cedros Island. We made the 95nm jump to them in one day, sailing almost the entire way in short, steep seas and 15-25kts of wind. The afternoon found us threading the pass between middle and east, and then reaching across behind west. Interestingly, the paper charts were far more accurate and well drawn than any digital charts onboard. The charts were made by the US Department of Defense, with most of the soundings from the USS Ranger in the late 1800s. Once again, Elon shot a rocket overhead, with the booster landing just offshore of Isla San Geronimo, where we had anchored the night before.
With a beautiful anchorage and unique island, we spent 2 full days exploring. Adventures included visiting the island’s 3 lighthouses, celebrating a birthday (including birthday hugs from 2 local fishermen) and lots of wingfoiling.
With decreasingly NW winds and many more miles to travel, we raised anchor for a short day-sail to Isla Cedros with time for an afternoon walk across to the windward side of the island.
We continued south in day-hops, sailing to Turtle Bay, Asuncion, Abreojos, and San Juanico.
The wind fully died by the time we arrived at San Juanico, motoring in around 3pm in a glassy calm. We were greeted by a friend of Bryce’s cousin who lives there, and treated to a wonderful tour of the town and amazing pizza dinner with friends of theirs. Unfortunately the evening ended with our dinghy, affectionately named the “sea tomato,” completely full of water in the surf. It was thoroughly dark but the pizza was the only loss. We now have different levels of surf landing – tomato pasted and juiced being the highest level of surf pulping. We left early the next morning and had fantastic sailing to Bahia Santa Maria, just to the north of the very large Bahia Magdalena. It doesn’t get much better than broad reaching in 15-20kts.
We arrived well after dark with dying wind and a large number of sardine purse seine boats around. As we anchored the wind piped up and blew a fairly consistent 15-30kts through the anchorage for the next 3 days.
We escaped the boat with minimal sea tomato drama (a large southerly swell was still running) for some great hikes to the southern point protecting the bay and to a lighthouse on the NW corner. Our last return from the beach to the boat was a bit desparate – crabbing sideways in the dinghy in 25+ knots of wind.
Peter proclaimed that there was, in fact, some value to wing-foiling after Bryce zoomed over to some Panga fishermen and managed to buy a few lobster. Lobster pasta and tacos followed.
After a relaxing 3 days, it was time for our final overnight push to Cabo San Lucas and the end of this first downwind leg of the trip. Bryce set a record for night watch sail changes. The wind came up and a tuna took our lure as we neared Cabo San Lucas in the mid-morning.
As we rounded the southern tip of the Baja peninsula and turned left we were met by a number of changes. The sea was filled with sportfishing and tourist boats, parasailors flew overhead, and megayachts rolled in the still-present southern swell. The water also turned a tropical blue and both the water and the air got downright hot. It was hard to believe that we had been swimming in wetsuits just 2 days before.
We continued on another 16 nm east and stopped for a refreshing dip before threading the breakwaters at the San Jose del Cabo marina. We backed into a cozy slip, plugged in the shorepower, showered away the saltwater, and celebrated 2,133nm traveled since leaving Seattle 6 weeks before.
The next morning Peter and Bryce flew out, back to Portland and Bend, leaving me alone on the boat for the first time since leaving Seattle. As expected, I had a good futz and clean, did laundry, and grocery shopped. The next morning Sophie flew in to begin a short jaunt up the Sea of Cortez. We kicked it off with a visit to the wild crane restaurant in the marina complex. Here’s a teaser, with more to be covered in the next post!
That’s all from the Kuakites for now- posted as we motor north towards La Paz in 90 degree weather.